1994 Ford Ranger Power Window Repair
My drivers side window has been struggling for some time now. Sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn't and it almost always had to be banged on to get it to go up. Complicating this is that my windows are equipped with automatics for both up and down using Taurus modules. Very helpful to have them both go up with a tap when you're approaching a mudhole at high speed, lol.It did turn out that it's the motor itself that is the problem.Anyway, the factory manual has you removing the entire window regulator assembly but you can remove just the motor/gearbox assembly and the counterbalance spring will still hold the window in position.The hitch is that one of the bolts/screws whatever has no access hole. If you use a small 8mm or 5/16' 'ignition wrench' (small box wrench) you can get in there and remove it but it takes awhile and a bit of acquired coordination.My solution to this was 4 strokes with my dremel and a cutting wheel as shown in the photo.Basically, through holes in the sheet metal you can see three 8mm bolt heads (although the upper right one is only partly visible) and you can see where the hole I hacked in the sheet metal has exposed the 'hidden' one. Also the tiny black hex head with a big black washer in the lower left must be removed also.After that, you unplug the motor harness from the door harness and the motor comes out easily.
This is a bit harder technique if you are removing a donor motor at the JY for replacement, but you can use the tiny wrench technique - just be prepared as it is not easy.I ended up fixing my motor. There is a nylon 'partition' in one end of the motor that holds the brushes and electrical connections and the solder joints on it were crystalized. I think they weren't that good to begin with. I cleaned and resoldered everything and the motor now works like a champ.Thought I'd throw that in just in case you were having problems and thinking about having to remove the entire assembly - you don't.
Hey guys, my power windows on my 93 Eddie Bauer are not working quite right. When i push the button to go up or down all i hear is a clicking noise and sometimes the window goes up or down and sometimes it doesnt. I know the motor is turning because i can feel it. Most of the time i end up hitting the button and pulling it up. I figured it must be a gear on the motor that is either stripped out or missing teeth.
But when i went to take it out i only can take out one bolt. The rest of whats holding the motor in are rivets. So is there a way for me to take it out?
Or am i gonna have to take it into a shop? Any suggestions? No.you do not, I repeat. DO NOT!!!!!!!!
Need to drill out the rivets if all you are doing is replacing the motor. I just completed this project on my '93 Sport. You have to drill out one of the dimples in the door (it's covered up by the lower left part of the speaker mount, so you'll be able to see it when you take out the speaker) with a 1/2' drill bit to expose the third screw.
Take out the screws, and the motor drops out. The two other screws are behind holes that are just to the left of the speaker. Re-installation is the same thing in reverse. It's a delicate operation.It's a lot tougher getting the motor re-installed, but it will align itself once you tighten down all the screws. The rivets have nothing to do with mounting the motor, and you'll make the project a lot harder than it has to be if you just need to replace the motor.
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My window froze in the down position. The switch activated a clicking sound in the door but the window would not budge. The switch seemed to work but the motor seemed shot.
If you think it's the motor DO NOT REMOVE THE REGULATOR!!! You don't need to in order to replace the motor. The motor comes out independent of the regulator.
No rivet drilling, no replacement bolts or any of that!!! If it's not the regulator - leave it alone except to lubricate it!! Drilling the 1/2' hole is no big deal but do not go too far, be gentle, the bolt is right there. (Ford™, PLEASE HELP US UNDERSTAND WHY THE DIMPLE AND NOT A HOLE???) Remove the speaker and all the mysteries of the inner door are revealed. You can see the motor and get your hand in there to remove it. For me, prior to installing the new motor, I removed the old motor, plugged in the new motor to test it and discovered it worked fine. And then, for the hell of it, I plugged in the old motor while it was out to test it.
IT WORKED FINE, TOO!!! I generously lubricated the regulator tracks with lithium grease and sprayed some Tri-Flow™ into pivot points, reinstalled the OLD motor and ran it for a good quarter hour; up and down, down and up - works like a charm!!! Better than before! Maybe a loose connection or a rusty joint or track??? Took the new motor back to AutoZone®!
Net cost: $0. Sure glad this old thread is still here, I would have never figured out the hidden bolt behind the Dimple.
After reading above of others having luck with their motor, once removed I had my hopes built up. Deader than a doornail both in and out of the truck. I'm assuming the connectors are the same on both front doors, so I think before I count it out completely I'll pull the other panel off, hook the motor to that connector and see if it works on that side. The switch appears to be working, then there were a few questionable results as well. Checked a few of the junk yards around and none have any motors for my '94 so if it's bad I guess I'll have to break down and buy a new one. I'm happy it's still running well and no major issues. Sure glad this old thread is still here, I would have never figured out the hidden bolt behind the Dimple.
Power Window Repair In Surprise Az
After reading above of others having luck with their motor, once removed I had my hopes built up. Deader than a doornail both in and out of the truck. I'm assuming the connectors are the same on both front doors, so I think before I count it out completely I'll pull the other panel off, hook the motor to that connector and see if it works on that side.
1994 Ford Ranger Power Window Repair Of Atlanta
The switch appears to be working, then there were a few questionable results as well. Checked a few of the junk yards around and none have any motors for my '94 so if it's bad I guess I'll have to break down and buy a new one. I'm happy it's still running well and no major issues. Click to expand.Might want to expand your 'ask around for.' I haven't done a side-by-side comparison but having done both motors on my wife's '92 F-150 4x4, and done both the motors on my '92 Explorer, I'd be willing to bet that they're the same motors.
I'm not sure how they're doing things now but back when every dinky little town had their own junkyard, you could almost guarantee that the guy who ran it would be able to tell you 'Naw, we don't have any of those, but a doo-ma-hickey from a 73 Buick will fit right in!' There USE-TO-BE no less than a dozen junk yards within 10-12 miles from where I live. Now there are two that I know of, the rest are all gone. My brother, when he lived next door was looking for a used rear end for his son's Dodge Dakota, the closest one he found as 523 miles away in SW Missouri, we live on the Illinois-Wisconsin State Line. In this area the prices of scrap steel skyrocket and they yards sold many, if not all, of their old vehicles and parts for the extra cash.
They use to offer about $125 to pick up junkers, then it jumped to $350 and everything dried up around here. There's a scrap yard less than 2 blocks from my house that goes 24 hours a day, grinding up old cars and loading railroad cars full of scrap steel. No idea where they go when they leave here but always piles and piles of old vehicles waiting to be loaded into the car shredders and turned into scrap steel. Hey Jake, not sure I'm really following what you're saying. Clunks while the window is going up/down, or clunks when the window bottoms out/gets to the top? I only ask because my front passenger window occasionally (as in, it's doing it now) does the clunking when it bottoms out or gets to the top.
That's not a biggie, I just need to pull the door panel and tighten up the screws again. What HAS become an issue is that the window has gotten 'cold blooded'. When the weather is warm, it goes up and down just fine.
But when the weather is cold, the darn thing is slower than a slow boat to China!