Installing Fullsac Baffles
From Our Friends at DynoJet:One big question is about re-mapping after changing the exhaust. Some say do it, other’s say it’s not necessary. More does than do not. Do I need to remap if I change aftermarket exhaust for another aftermarket exhaust? The work has been done. Why do it again?To get the most performance out of your bike remapping the fuel injection is a must. With just a setup of pipes installed it is not imperative to remap the fuel curve as it will not run lean enough to cause any damage.
If you were to purchase an exhaust that is similar in size, shape, volume, and design then remapping the fuel injection may not be necessary. But if you go from a set of slip-ons to a 2:1 full system remapping will be necessary.Related Videos:Have more questions? Check out the Tags here and our Q&A index page to find some answers.Tags. 47 Responses to “Remap My EFI After New Exhaust?”. NandoBefore you buy a intake or a new set of shiny exhaust get yourself a fuel management system as this is necessary for the proper function of your ride.I use a vance and hines fuelpak and its the best purchase I did for my bike and this avoids a dynotune every time I do a simple upgrade. DrewMy 2018 Street Glide will not start after installing Rinehart slip ons. What’s the problem?.
DonI BOUGHT A NEW HD STREET GLIDE SPECIAL. ON THE BIKE IS A UP TO DATE AIR CLEANER AND A SET OF SCREAMIN EAGLE PIPES AND THE SYSTEM WAS MAPPED.
DO YOU THINK THAT I SHOULD RE-MAPP WHEN I GET A NEW SET OF SLIPP -ON’S?. Dennis SantopietroHi Don, Congrats on the new ride. Most slip-ons do not require remapping.
Check with the manufacturer to be sure. MichaelWhat if I have a K&N high flow filter and change my stock pipes to a different style of stock pipes? I picked up a set that came off a newer touring model, but my 07 FLHT is in the fitment list. Part number is obsolete, but what I’ve found online shows they are a Screaming Eagle pipe yet they do not have anything on them saying Screaming Eagle. Service techs at local dealer say I am fine, bike is running awesome.
I was told if there would need an issue it would be noticed right away. No back firing or choking out when I get on it. I still plan on having it dyno’d just to be safe. Customer Service TechsIf you make performance upgrades for your bikes airflow, you will need to add more fuel to the mix with a tuner.The bike may run ok but, ultimately, it will be lean.
This is a pickup from this thread:I've been running these 'de-plugged' (otherwise stock) 4' CVO mufflers for the past few years on a early TC88 touring bike with the stock (catless) header and Andrews TW26 camshafts. The previous mufflers I had were too loud and 'aggressive' sounding at speed. I really like the way these CVO mufflers look and would like to take advantage of the performance potential of a larger volume muffler.These CVO muffers have 'the' tone for my ear. It is deep and throaty and not at all 'tinny'.
However, with the great sound, they carried a couple of issues for my setup. First, they just seemed to have too little backpressure, especially with the cam change. At low RPMs the power I previously had was just not there (seat of the pants dyno doesn't lie).
On the interstate when in the sweet spot of the cams, they did fine, but lower speeds there was a noticeable power loss. Second, at interstate speed, they were just too loud. Loud enough to overcome the road, wind, and engine noise. Without earplugs, after a day of riding, my ears were ringing. Last, I developed a popping noise between high rpm shifts that I could not resolve with new exhaust seals or carb tuning:I ordered up a set of the Fullsac 1.75' 'power core' baffles with the mesh screens and packing:The install was fairly straight forward. I took the advice of using a die grinder with carbide bit to knock off the welds holding the original baffles to the housings.
This took all of 10 minutes (taking my time to ensure I didn't burn through the wall of the muffler body). The old baffles needed to be knocked out with a pipe and the new baffles needed to be knocked back in with a small sledge and block of wood. I didn't want to drill new holes in the mufflers to fasten the new baffles (to avoid rust) so I had the bright idea to JB Weld them in as it is good to 600F. Those muffler ends couldn't possibly get that hot, right? First blast on the highway that epoxy burned off and vanished without a trace. So apparently they get hotter than 600F.
No big deal, though, as the tight fit didn't allow them to move even 1mm and it doesn't appear that they ever will. If they do, the end caps will prevent them from shooting out and I can always pop in a little 1/8' stainless rivet to secure them.After riding for a couple hundred miles today I have a few first impressions. The tone is a bit more crisp than the CVO baffles. Very similar to stock 1-piece mufflers actually.
Fullsac Header
Definitely not as loud as the modified CVO baffles. Easy now to hear the engine and tires along with the exhaust. Don't get me wrong, they aren't quiet or wimpy sounding, and certainly too much volume for someone to tailgate on the insterstate, but just not quite as loud. Probably louder than stock 1-piece muffler, which is exactly what I was after.
They do have this annoying little high-pitched 'chirp' overtone at certain speeds though. I'm hoping as they break in that will go away.
That low rpm power associated with the CVO baffles is noticeably improved (why the 1.75' and not 2.0'+ ID Fullsac core size was selected). Best part, though, is no matter what I did I could not get it to pop in between shifts (and believe me I tried). In hindsight, I think the CVO baffle works more like a drag pipe whereas the Fullsac baffle works more like a performance baffle taking more advantage of the muffler body volume.Bottom line, for a catless header and all-day riding where too much volume level is a concern, the Fullsac baffles work well. If you need some additional flow (i.e.
Fullsac Exhaust
Bigger engine and/or cat. Header) and are ok with a higher volume level, the modified CVOs are as good as I've heard.